Suavia is a 30-hectare organic wine estate based in Fittà, a small rural village in the hills of Soave Classico in the Veneto region of north-east Italy. Owned by three sisters, Meri, Valentina and Alessandra Tessari, they are carrying on the work of their parents, Giovanni and Rosetta, who started the business in 1982.
The Soave Classico hills are the most demanding part of the Soave DOC. Many of the new generations of grape growers are abandoning the historical upper vineyards in favour of the flatter plains. There the soil is more fertile, water availability is greater, production volumes are bigger and much of the industry is mechanised, while vineyards in Soave Classico are hand-harvested.
The microclimate of Soave Classico is cooler than in the flat plains of Soave, but vineyards benefit from the high number of sunlight hours due to the excellent exposure offered by the steep slopes. The hills and mountains create a cool, windy area with lower humidity than in the flatter plains, so perfect conditions for grape growing.
Meri, Valentina and Alessandra Tessari
Suavia only produces white wine from two native white grape varieties, Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave.
Garganega is the most widespread white grape in the provinces of Verona and Vicenza and the first variety planted in the Soave area. It's not as difficult to grow as Trebbiano di Soave and is relatively high-yielding. A late-ripening variety picked well into October, berries tend to be quite large, but can vary in size according to the subsoil and climate.
The poorer yielding, early ripening and disease-prone Trebbiano di Soave, the historical blending grape of the region, has many features in common with Verdicchio from Le Marche and Trebbiano di Lugana (Turbiana). However, it differs from these by its compact bunches with small, thin-skinned berries. After the Second World War, the grape had generally been replaced by the more productive Trebbiano Toscano (aka Ugni Blanc). It only remained in a few vineyards in the hills, protected by the old grape growers who kept some vines back to make their own family wine at home. Today, thanks to Suavia's investment and collaboration with the University of Milan at the start of the millenium, this ancient variety continues to be researched and has been brought back and replanted on 2.5 hectares in Fittà. In the last two years, they have planted new vineyards, so now have 7-8 hectares of Trebbiano in total.
Vines here are grown exclusively with the traditional Veronese Pergola training system, a distinguishing characteristic of the Soave landscape. "Unlike those who have recently switched to the Guyot training system", says Valentina Tessari, Suavia's oenologist, "we believe that the Veronese pergola, even with new plantings, remains the best system for our grapes. In addition to having an emotional and cultural value for us, it's the one that guarantees a better microclimate and greater ventilation of the vegetative wall, as well as shading the bunch so that it's not affected by the sun in a direct way."
Soave DOC wine must contain a minimum of 70% Garganega with up to 30% Trebbiano di Soave and/or Chardonnay too. However, as Alessandra Tessari explains, tradition remains important at Suavia. "Our philosophy is to make wines that respect the tradition of the land and so we don't even grow Chardonnay."
She notes how the area of Soave was created by many grape growers who worked together in groups to produce the wines and most still sell to big cooperatives, unlike Suavia who make wine from their own grapes. "Just a small part [comprises] small private wineries", she adds. "We don't really have big plots of land here. The history of many grape growers resulted in this parcelization with land divided into small pieces."
The hills of the Soave Classico area lie at an altitude of up to 340 metres. The soil is volcanic, originating from the intense volcanic activity that occurred under the sea during the middle Eocene era (about 50 million years ago). However, limestone also exists in these hills, a geographical fault being the dividing line separating volcanic basalt from calcareous soil deposits.
The basalt rocks that define so much of this terroir were formed by the sudden cooling of magma under the sea and on the ground. As a result, this soil is particularly rich in minerals, particularly iron, magnesium and manganese, which benefit the vines.
Valentina Tessari: "Our company stands on an ancient land, whose formation dates back to about 50 million years ago. Once these lands were covered by the ocean and the climate was tropical. The seabed teemed with submarine volcanoes."
There is currently a real buzz about volcanic wines, as more people discover just what makes them special. In the UK, the recent Volcanic Wines of the World tasting, a new annual extravaganza, attracted a range of visitors from across the wine-loving world, including press, buyers, Masters of Wine and consumers. This pioneering event received a hugely positive response from all who attended and those who were unable to go but wanted to be there!
Alessandra also believes that this is an exciting category of wines. "Volcanic territory in wine is something very fashionable. They represent less than 1% of the total production in the world and are made in really interesting areas, sometimes on active volcanoes like Etna, or in particular islands [and other] fascinating places. So many people are focusing on this particular category of wines."
She is keen to point out that volcanic wines have their own unique qualities that have been scientifically studied. "The Soave Consorzio did some technical studies, comparing the wines from the limestone and volcanic hills of Soave Classico. They found out that there are chemical characteristics that make the volcanic wines unique. So, they found some particular chemical components in the volcanic wines of Soave that they didn't find in the limestone ones. The difference is real. It's nothing to do with marketing or storytelling."
Suavia's vineyards are a good example of how different volcanic soils can exist side by side. The winery's largest plot, at 6 hectares and an altitude of 280 metres, lies in the steep, hilly Monte Carbonare area, renowned as one of Soave Classico's top crus. The deep volcanic soil here is dark (carbone means coal), formed by black basalt. Whereas basalt is normally a particularly strong rock, here it is very breakable.
Alessandra explains further. "It depends on how it was created. We get many different types of volcanic soil within the same area. This particular one was probably formed by volcanoes that were not under the sea but were outside of the sea. The eruptions started 50 million years ago, but they lasted until 20 million years ago. In the beginning, the volcanoes were under the water. Then at the end, they had started to come up. These made completely different kinds of basalt rock. So, 50 million years ago, lava coming out of craters encountered water from the ocean. This led to an abrupt cooling of the lava, so the gases trapped inside didn't have the chance to emerge and the stones you get are very compact and hard. That's one kind of basalt you get there."
"This one is different", she continues, "and sometimes you can see rocks full of holes created by the gases going out of the lava. They were probably formed above the sea, as the gases had the time to come out. The lava is not so hard and compact as in the first case and is more breakable. Geologists say that this soil developed over millennia and evolved. For the vines, it's an easier soil to live in as the roots can go through the stones … and the volcanic mineral components are more absorbable.
The compact basalt can be found on the other side of the hill, which Alessandra describes as "a totally different environment for the vines". "Studying the soil", she says, "we have an idea of why the vines behave in different ways on each side of the hill. This helps us manage the vineyard in a different way."
The rocks also show different colours depending on the level of oxidation the iron content underwent when created. So in one vineyard, the volcanic soil may be dark, while in the neighbouring one, it can have a distinct red hue.
A summer tour and tasting at Suavia offered an opportunity to try a selection of their wines in the beautiful hills of the Soave Classico region. The UK importer of Suavia wines is Bibendum and bottles can be found in both on- and off-trade. The wines tasted are as follows:-
This wine spent 4-5 months in contact with its lees in steel tanks, followed by 1 month in bottle. ABV is 12%.
Grapes: 100% Garganega from 40-year-old vines in the northern part of the Soave Classico area with different hillside aspects. The average altitude is around 300 metres on mixed soils of volcanic origin.
Colour: Light yellow with a hint of green.
Nose: Notes of lemon, lemon verbena, pear, white flowers.
Palate: Fresh and juicy with notes of lemon, lime, apricot, touches of tropical fruit and almond paste plus a saline, mineral finish.
Food Match: Ideal as an aperitif, this will pair well with a variety of light dishes, including fish, chicken and mild cheeses.
The name Massifitti describes the volcanic soil of this area which is particularly rich in large, compact basalt rocks. The vineyard was planted in 2006 using clones of old Trebbiano di Soave vines selected by the University of Milan. This wine spent 15 months in contact with its lees in steel tanks, followed by 12 months in bottle. ABV is 12.5%.
Grapes: 100% Trebbiano di Soave from 40-year-old vines on south-facing slopes at an altitude of 300 metres.
Colour: Straw yellow.
Nose: Notes of Granny Smith apple, chamomile and wet stone with hints of spice.
Palate: Defined minerality with notes of citrus, green apple, salt water, hints of quince and spice plus a slight creaminess from the lees.
Food Match: Perfect with sushi and other light fish/seafood or vegetable dishes.
Suavia was the first estate to produce a single varietal sparkling wine from 100% Trebbiano di Soave. This classic method bubbly is only made in the best vintages (just 2000 bottles) and is now in its fifth year of production. The wine spent 24 months in bottle on its lees and has zero dosage. ABV is 12.5%.
Grapes: 100% Trebbiano di Soave.
Colour: Straw yellow.
Nose: Hints of bruised apple, citrus, a touch of hazelnuts and a yeasty edge.
Palate: Fresh, dry and herbal with notes of chamomile, jasmine, lemon and apple plus a savoury hint.
Food Match: Good with cold cuts, oysters, fried fish or smoked salmon.
This wine, made from microvinifications of three plots of Garganega, spent 12-15 months in contact with its lees in steel tanks, followed by 5-6 months in bottle. ABV is 12.6%.
Grapes: 100% Garganega from vines of 60-65 years old, planted in black volcanic soil on northeast- and northwest-facing slopes, at an altitude of 280 metres.
Colour: Straw yellow.
Nose: Floral, fruity and a little smoky with juicy notes of ripe apricot and citrus plus white flowers, hints of herbs.
Palate: Juicy, fresh, mineral and complex with notes of stonefruit, lemon, almond, white pepper, a hint of lemongrass and a subtle creamy quality.
Food Match: Great with fish dishes, this wine will also pair well with vegetable risottos, white meat with truffles or medium-aged cheeses.
This wine spent 12-15 months in contact with its lees in 25-hectolitre oak barrels, then a short time in stainless steel before resting in bottle for 12 months. ABV is 13.5%.
Grapes: 100% Garganega from one of Suavia's oldest vineyards, a small, steep, south-facing site with soils of volcanic origin containing clay and silt, planted by the three sisters' grandfather in 1942/43. Over-ripening of grapes due to the sun exposure results in a natural drying on the vine.
Colour: Golden yellow.
Nose: Intense aromas of tropical fruit, candied citrus and woody spice with a hint of smoke.
Palate: Structured and long with notes of tropical fruit, honey and beeswax, a touch of sweet ginger and warming spices, this is a dry wine with just a hint of sweetness from the 11g of residual sugar.
Food Match: A white wine that can cope with strongly-flavoured food, including those typically paired with red wine, this will pair well with spicy Thai dishes, roast chicken, fatty or smoked fish, risotto with truffles, aged cheeses and more.
Alessandra Tessari comments: "With the feeling and structure of Le Rive, we say this is the only red wine we produce, although it's not a red wine! We produce it to demonstrate how much we can push the boundaries … It's unusual, but it gives an idea of how interesting and varied wine from this area can be."
Although technically a Soave Classico, from 2010, they decided to name this wine differently to avoid potentially misleading the market. "We consider it a particular interpretation of Garganega", adds Alessandra.
Alessandra is keen to emphasise that Soave Classico benefits from ageing on lees and that this needs to be communicated more widely to help differentiate the category from cheaper, mass market expressions of Soave. "There's another face of the same denomination which we want to transmit. [There's] the idea that white wines should always be drunk very young. This is not the case with Soave Classico, as one to five years on fine lees [make these wines] much more expressive than young, fresh ones and speak more of the land and the volcanic soil."
To this end, it was a pleasure to have the opportunity to try Monte Carbonara 2003. Although this was a particularly hot year, the North-East facing vineyard afforded some protection from the extreme heat and so maintained acidity levels in the wines. Despite a touch of oxidation (it was bottled under cork, unlike the newer screwcap versions), the wine was still intriguing and very drinkable! A touch of dried pear with wisteria flowers on the nose led to a dry, mineral-tinged palate that retained freshness and acidity with notes of pear, black pepper and even a hint of spearmint on the finish.
Soave Multiverso, an initiative started in 2022, seeks to promote the quality and longevity of Soave Classico wines, as well as the beauty and special terroir of the region. The importance of this is something Alessandra firmly believes in. For her, the volcanic soils and longevity of these wines can help raise the image and profile of Soave, the perception of which she feels is not as high as it should be. "We need to convince more people about the quality of the wines we produce here", she says. "Quality production is a very small percentage. The reputation of our denomination is not high, because of the mass of low quality wines. So, it's difficult to promote Soave wines at higher price levels than the average. This is a pity, as there are some very high quality wines that can last many years and few people know about this."
With the excellence of Suavia's wines and its scenic location, underlining the difference volcanic terroir makes within this iconic part of the Veneto may become just that little bit easier.
