Image credit: Skærsøgaard Vineyard, Denmark's first licensed and most awarded winery
There's an old Swedish proverb that translates as 'There is no bad weather, only bad clothing'. Climate change is … well … changing that!
Agriculture faces a somewhat unpredictable future with higher temperatures amid shifting climatic patterns dictating what crops can and should be grown in which areas. However, global warming is allowing areas of the world, previously considered too cold or harsh for winemaking, to become the new 'cool climate' wine zones. Even Scandinavia, known more for its spirits, fruit wines and beer, now has several vineyards producing wine commercially.
The Swedish Meteorological and Hydrological Institute reports temperatures in the country's south have increased by about 2°C over the past 30 years compared to the previous 30 years. Climate experts predict that in 50 years' time, Scandinavia's climate will be more like that of northern France. So, making wine there is becoming more viable.
Dons PDO Sparkling Wine - image credit: Skærsøgaard Vineyard
Take Denmark, for instance. Commercial production of wine has been allowed since 2001. Hobby growers had already started growing grapes in the early 1990s, before other Nordic countries followed suit. Today, the country has 110 commercial producers and around 1300 hobby growers. Vineyards are spread throughout the country, but are mainly by the coast and on the islands. Denmark is also the only Scandinavian country with a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) quality designation, reserved for sparkling wine from Dons, the EU's northernmost appellation.
Very few fungicides are approved by the Danish authorities, so viticulture is strongly depended on grape varieties robust enough to withstand fungal diseases, humidity, winter frosts and cold nights. These are primarily 'hybrids' (crossings of different grape species), with Solaris, a hardy white grape variety particularly important, typically showing green apple, citrus, gooseberry and elderflower notes. Rondo, which can have a tangy berry and spice character, dominates the reds.
Image credit: Skærsøgaard Vineyard
Skærsøgaard is Denmark's first licensed and most awarded winery, now in its 26th year. It's also one of the largest in Scandinavia with approximately 10 hectares of land and almost 30,000 vines, including 47% dedicated to Solaris and 17% to Rondo. Owner Sven Moesgaard says his goal is to make wine that "bears the mark of Danish summers with long, bright nights, slow aromatic ripening of the grapes and a classic craftsmanship quality."
Niclas Albinsson makes traditional method sparkling wine at Särtshöga Vingård in Sweden, where 80% of vineyards are similarly planted with Solaris. The remaining 20% are mainly other hybrids, but also a 'noble grape', reflecting the adventurous Scandinavian spirit within what is still a very young wine industry. "We planted 400 vines of Pinot Noir this year to see if it's possible to make a sparkling wine from that", he says.
Albinsson is optimistic about future growth in the country's wine industry, as the potential for growing grapes continues to be recognised. "There are currently around 200 hectares of vineyards in Sweden, split into 40 commercial producers and around 40 hobbyists. Within five years, I think [the vineyard land] will double."
Scandinavia has some surprising microclimates and soils perfect for growing grapes. Andrea Guerra of Långmyre Vineyard on the Swedish island of Gotland explains the uniqueness of his location. "Gotland is quite different from the rest of the country, especially the southernmost tip where we and the other local vineyard are located. The main difference is the weather. This is the sunniest place in the country and we are subject to very severe and prolonged drought periods … The other difference is in the soil. The whole island is made of limestone, which vines really love."
Solaris grapes from Grubbestad Gård in Sandefjord, Norway: image provided by Norsk Vinskue 2023
Even Norway, at above 58°N latitude, so well outside the traditional viticultural zone of 30-50°N in the northern hemisphere, has a few vineyards. According to the Norwegian Grape Growers' Association, there are over 31 hectares of vines in the country, although less than ten producers produce wine commercially. While hybrids like Solaris, Rondo and others dominate, a small amount of Riesling is also grown.
Betina Newberry of Denmark's Dyrehøj Vingaard also sees a good future for Scandinvian wine. "It looks like the world is interested in the freshness and crispness of wines from the Nordic cool climate. Quality will keep improving as our vines get older and we get cleverer with our viticulture."
Image credit: Dyrehøj Vingaard
Newberry stresses the importance of environmentally friendly agriculture when thinking of the future and Moesgaard agrees. "We also have a responsibility to make the smallest possible climate footprint, taking good care of nature", he says. "Our goal is to work together with nature, not to intervene unnecessarily. With this approach, we know that we can also produce fantastic wines in the future and see great growth and demand for wine production here in Denmark."
For Kenneth Gustafsson, founder of Gothenburg urban winery, Wine Mechanics, Nordic viticulture still has several years to go before quality reaches another level. "I believe Sweden is where the UK was 25 years ago. We need an influx of knowledge and to learn more about which sites work well for vine growing. In ten years, I think we will produce very fine sparkling wines in Sweden from coastal sites."
Nordic wines certainly have novelty appeal now. However, as climate change continues to change the face of global agriculture and interest in products with true local provenance, an engaging story and eco-friendly credentials continues to grow, then wines from Scandinavia might become a little less niche in future.
Skål!
This article was first written for Victor Magazine, a luxury lifestyle publication
