One of the vinous jewels of Italy has to be Chianti Classico, a DOCG appellation lying between Florence and Siena in Tuscany.
A little bit of history to start with …
In 1716, Cosimo III, Grand Duke of Tuscany officially delimited the 'Chianti' production zone. However, in the early 20th Century, wine also labelled Chianti, began to be made outside this area. So, in 1924, winemakers of the original Chianti created a Consortium, symbolised by the military Black Rooster Trademark, to protect the style, quality, name and reputation of their wines. Eight years later, a decree was issued allowing the addition of the suffix 'Classico' to distinguish those wines made within the original production zone. In 1967, Chianti DOC was established, before becoming a DOCG in 1984. Eventually, Chianti Classico became a separate DOCG in 1996.
Today there are 7,200 hectares of vineyards registered as Chianti Classico within a total vineyard area of 10,000 hectares. The wine must comprise a minimum 80% of Sangiovese and a maximum 20% of other red indigenous or international grape varieties. Every bottle has the Black Rooster trademark on its neck or back label.
In 2013, a major development was undertaken, with a new top quality level agreed by the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico. A classification of 'Gran Selezione' was created for wines made from grapes selected from an estate's best vineyards or single vineyard, which have been aged for at least 30 months including three in bottle. The second level is termed 'Riserva', for which the minimum ageing requirement is 24 months including three in bottle and below that is 'Annata' (12 months' ageing). Minimum alcohol percentages are 13%, 12.5% and 12% respectively.
New regulations from the 2027 harvest will increase the minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowable in the blend to 90% and prohibit the use of non-native varieties.
The principal constituent grape of Chianti Classico is Sangiovese, known for its fresh fruity flavours, particularly when young, redolent of sour cherries, with plums and/or strawberries often present too. The fruit profile is complemented by earthy and herbaceous notes, spice, high acidity and medium-high tannins. Savoury leather and tobacco notes are also often present, along with other wood-derived characteristics from oak ageing.
San Felice is a renowned producer in the region, located in the heart of the Chianti Classico area, just outside Siena in the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga. They also own estates in Montalcino and Bolgheri where they produce Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino, respectively. Spanning 685 hectares in total, 188 hectares are dedicated to vineyards, 60 hectares to olive groves with 15,000 olive trees and the remainder to woodlands. All wines are made from estate-grown grapes.
Their Chianti Classico vineyards comprise 150 hectares at altitudes between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. Soils are mainly compact clay and limestone with fine sandstone and silt also present. Almost 85% of the surface is covered with Sangiovese.
Surrounded by forests, vineyards and the iconic cypress trees, the winery is based in the Borgo San Felice, a medieval hamlet, restored 40 years ago and now transformed into a luxury resort. This includes a boutique five-star hotel, part of Relais & Châteaux, and a Michelin 1-star restaurant.
San Felice is particularly well-known for Vigorello IGT, made since 1968. This was the first of a new generation of Tuscan wines that subsequently became known as Supertuscans.
Sustainability is a core principle in the region and there is even a Chianti Classico Sustainability Manifesto for reducing the environmental impact of winemaking and also protecting and enriching social and cultural resources.
The large amount of woodland on San Felice's estate is testament to the winery's dedication to sustainability and biodiversity, while benefiting the vines as well. Leonardo Bellaccini, oenologist, explains further: "Most of the vineyards in Tuscany are dry farmed with no irrigation and everybody is affected by global warming. The woodlands close to the vineyards provide a cool breeze during the night, which helps to maintain a good difference between night and day temperatures and is key for the final quality of the wine.
"We have been certified sustainable for several years and are also in conversion to organic farming. We are trying to develop regenerative viticulture in order to improve the health of the soil and are part of a research programme defining the best way to store more carbon in the soil and less CO2 in the air to help both the environment and the vine."
San Felice is also involved in a project to plant forgotten, indigenous grape varieties. This inspired the creation of a 2.5 hectare experimental vineyard, The Vitiarium, in 1987 with 270 grape varieties, of which 161 were red and the rest white. Following DNA analysis, 105 of these were retained after non-native grapes were excluded. The winery's new Vitiarium line, which has just been launched, reflects this revival of ancient, nearly lost Tuscan grape varieties.
"Our goal is to produce wine that reminds the consumer of the region where it comes from and, if possible, to give an indication of the producer."
San Felice's approach led to the discovery of the Pugnitello grape, which Bellaccini says that "year by year became our signature variety that gives personality to the San Felice wines, [showing] a strong link to the territory, but also a direct connection with the producer."
As well as a single varietal expression (see below), the grape is also used in several of their blends. The name means 'little fist', referring to the small, compact bunches it produces. "I use Pugnitello in several wines to give the San Felice fingerprint in the glass", adds Bellaccini.
From the late 1970s, San Felice began planting a series of carefully chosen Sangiovese clones in a 2.5 hectare vineyard on limestone-rich soil and developed a single-vineyard, limited-edition expression called Poggio Rosso. The first vintage was in 1978 and more recently became part of the Gran Selezione category.
The best bunches are selected at harvest, but a further selection of the highest quality berries is made in the cellar prior to vinification. Then, during the ageing process, Bellaccini chooses the best barrels to use for the wine. So, the final total of usually around 6,000-7,000 bottles is less than 50% of the number that could be made from the grapes available.
At a recent tasting in London, Bellaccini presented three Poggio Rosso wines from warm vintages, but showing very different characters. They all spent 20 months in 500L French oak barrels, then 15 months in bottle.
🍇 Grapes: 100% Sangiovese.
🎚️ ABV: 14.5%.
🔍 Appearance: Ruby red.
👃 Nose: Aromatic with notes of sandalwood, strawberry and dried cranberry plus hints of coffee and chocolate.
😋 Palate: Smooth and mouth-filling with notes of dried red berries and cherries, softening touches of milk chocolate and milky coffee plus hints of eucalyptus and nutmeg.
🍇 Grapes: 100% Sangiovese.
🎚️ ABV: 13.5%.
🔍 Appearance: Ruby red.
👃 Nose: Lifted aromatic notes of fresh mixed berries with a hint of plum.
😋 Palate: Notes of berries and soft cedarwood with a touch of damson on the finish. While still relatively young and age-worthy, this classic vintage expression shows excellent acid/tannin balance and rich fruit without any rough or bitter herbaceous edges.
🍇 Grapes: 100% Sangiovese.
🎚️ ABV: 14.5%.
🔍 Appearance: Ruby red.
👃 Nose: Notes of raspberry, blackberry and thyme with hints of eucalyptus, cedarwood and a slight meatiness.
😋 Palate: Light with refreshing acidity, this shows notes of loganberry, raspberry and dried herbs with a mouth-watering savoury edge and gentle spice.
The London tasting also included the new Vitiarium range, matched to a special menu of dishes at the Michelin 1-star Hide Restaurant.
This wine was "born from a mistake", says Bellacini. With Chardonnay vineyards already planted, in the mid-to-late 1990s he decided to add a new vineyard for Sauvignon Blanc. So he bought some young vines, but a few years later, realised that the nursery had mostly sent him Semillon. After trying to make wine from these grapes, he was unhappy with the quality. Believing that their acidity and freshness could help give "more flavour, fruitiness and better balance" to the Chardonnay, he combined these grapes and created a new wine, named after the old Etruscan name for an area dedicated to agriculture, 'Avane'.
The bottle label shows the saffron flower, an iconic symbol of Etruscan civilisation and, therefore, a homage to the region's biodiversity.
Fermentation was carried out predominantly in stainless steel and partly in oak barrels.
🍇 Grapes: 85% Chardonnay, with the remaining 15% a combination of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.
🎚️ ABV: 12.5%.
🔍 Appearance: Straw colour.
👃 Nose: Notes of white flowers, citrus and honey with a hint of herbs.
😋 Palate: Light and fresh with similar notes of citrus, honey and a touch of almond paste.
🍽️ Food Pairings: Perfect with salads, sushi and light white meat-based dishes.
This wine was aged for around 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels (10,000L size).
🍇 Grapes: 80% Sangiovese and 20% Pugnitello.
🎚️ ABV: 13.5%.
🔍 Appearance: Ruby red.
👃 Nose: Aromatic notes of blackberry, black cherry, raspberry and chocolate malt with a hint of spice.
😋 Palate: Plush and juicy, but with a light touch, the wine shows notes of cherry, bramble fruit and malt biscuit plus balancing crisp acidity and smooth tannins.
🍽️ Food Pairings: A young wine, this shows best with hearty food, including vegetarian soups and risottos. Hide's pumpkin soup with cheese-filled agnolotti (stuffed pasta squares) and sage butter was a deliciously comforting match.
This wine underwent malolactic conversion and ageing in wood for 24 months with refinement in 500L French oak tonneaux, prior to 8 months bottle age.
The label depicts the paintwork in the local parish church (Pieve) of San Felice, a nod to the fact that the grapes for this wine come from the closest vineyard to the estate.
🍇 Grapes: 95% Sangiovese and 5% Pugnitello.
🎚️ ABV: 14%.
🔍 Appearance: Intense ruby red.
👃 Nose: Notes of blackcurrant, violet and liquorice with spicy hints.
😋 Palate: Smooth and full-bodied, showing notes of ripe berries, Morello cherries and liquorice with a succulent savoury edge plus hints of vanilla and nutmeg on the long finish. This is a wine that blends fruity power and finesse with juicy, elegant tannins and a touch of minerality.
🍽️ Food Pairings: A great match for game dishes, roast/grilled beef or lamb and aged cheeses.
This wine spent 20-25 days fermenting on its skins at 30°C, followed by 18-20 months maturation in French oak barriques, prior to 8 months bottle age.
🍇 Grapes: 100% Pugnitello.
🎚️ ABV: 13.5%.
🔍 Appearance: Bright, dark red.
👃 Nose: Complex aromas melding wild strawberry, cooked berries, plum, cinnamon and clove with a herbaceous edge.
😋 Palate: Velvety smooth and concentrated with savoury, iron-rich blood notes overlaying flavours of dark berry fruit, cayenne pepper and paprika.
🍽️ Food Pairings: Perfect with beef and red wine stew, game or veal dishes and, as served at Hide, with a selection of high quality cheeses, fruit loaf and chutney.
The jewel in the crown of the tasting, San Felice's 100% Pugnitello is a wonderful, exciting and characterful expression of a 'forgotten grape'. Rather than a punch from this little fist, it's more of a joyful caress and one you'll want time and time again!
The grape clusters for this traditional Vin Santo were dried on cane mats between October and December, then pressed and fermented. The wine was aged in small oak barrels for 5 years, before spending 12 months in bottle.
🍇 Grapes: 100%Trebbiano Toscano.
🧬 Total Acidity: 6g/L.
🍬 Residual Sugar: 85g/L.
🎚️ ABV: 16.5%.
🔍 Appearance: Amber.
👃 Nose: Aromas of honeyed nuts and nougat.
😋 Palate: Notes of charred orange, honey, toasted almonds and subtle spice with a hint of dried mango and crisp acidity.
🍽️ Food Pairings: Ideal with desserts and sweet petits fours, particularly those containing almonds, but also with sheep's cheese and aged Gorgonzola. Hide's soaked sponge in red tea with vanilla cream was a delicious match.
San Felice is committed to what they describe as "producing authentic expressions of the territory". So, if you've never sampled their products before, but yearn for a true taste of Tuscany, then you know where to go!
San Felice wines are imported into the UK by Boutinot Wines
