Winemaker Nicola Chiucchiurlotto at Madrevite
Umbria is known as the 'Green Heart of Italy'. Um what … did you say? Well, if you've never visited or tried the wonderful wines made there, then read on.
The only landlocked region in the central part of the country, Umbria borders Tuscany, Le Marche and Lazio. With Rome to the south and Rimini to the north, it's an area full of forests, olive groves, medieval towns and scenic hilltop views.
In the UK market, Orvieto, a full-bodied white wine based on Grechetto and Trebbiano Toscano, has had some success over the years, but other native and international grapes shine brightly too. One winery combining Umbrian tradition and modern thinking is Is Madrevite.
Madrevite was founded in 2003, when Nicola Chiucchiurlotto began restoring his family farm and decided to replant part of his grandfather Zino's old vineyards dating back to 1978. Located near the Tuscan border within the Colli del Trasimeno DOC, Madrevite has 11 hectares of vines and an annual production of 35.000 bottles.
Nicola's philosophy has embraced a contemporary approach, making fresh, characterful, varietal wines that reflect the land and its indigenous grapes, appealing to the modern wine drinker, while still respecting the region's winemaking history.
The winery is named after an ancient tool used by Umbrian winemakers to fasten a wooden spigot on to the opening of a wine barrel.
Surrounded by wooded hills, vineyards lie on the western shore of Lake Trasimeno, at between 280 and 350 metres above sea level. Vineyards benefit from mild, wet winters and warm, dry summers with cooling breezes and a large diurnal range. Soils are primarily clay-based, but also contain sand and pebbles.
Viticulture has ancient origins in this area, dating back to Etruscan and Roman times. Pliny the Elder described it as an area particularly well-suited to growing grapes and producing excellent wines.
Madrevite practises organic and sustainable agriculture without using chemical herbicides and pesticides, protecting environmental biodiversity. Fermentation is mostly spontaneous, while soft pressing and natural clarification are also preferred.
The main red grapes grown here are Gamay del Trasimeno, Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Syrah, while white varieties include Trebbiano Spoletino and Grechetto.
The main grape used for Orvieto, Grechetto tends to make quite full-bodied, dry white wines with good acidity, some floral tones and herbal, almond, citrus, tropical and/or stone fruit notes.
Trebbiano Spoletino is a floral and fruity indigenous grape from the region with high acidity, typically showing notes of aromatic herbs and citrus often with spice and a mineral edge. It is not genetically related to other Trebbiano grapes.
Gamay del Trasimento is a biotype of Grenache/Garnacha, which arrived in the region from Spain in the early 1600s. With good resistance to drought, it's a grape that's becoming more popular around the world, as more vineyards grapple with the effects of climate change. At Madrevite in the 1970s, Zino Chiucchiurlotto planted a small vineyard with Gamay del Trasimeno, grafted from ancient cuttings. The grape is typically fragrant with crunchy red fruit and spice notes plus good acidity.
From the 2026 harvest, producers will be allowed to label their wines made from Gamay del Trasimeno as 'Grenache' instead.
Sangiovese is the dominant variety in central Italy, particularly Tuscany. After more than 15 years of development, Madrevite identified a vineyard as the best one for growing this grape to produce fresh wines with a good balance of tannins and acidity. Characteristics include cherry, red berry, plum and spice notes.
Montepulciano tends to produce full-bodied red wines with cherry, plum, red fruit and liquorice notes.
Nicola Chiucchiurlotto decided to plant Syrah in the early 2000s, because the terroir at Madrevite is very similar to that of Cortona in nearby Tuscany which produces high-quality Syrah wines. Dark fruit and spice are typical characteristics in these wines, often with some complexity and ageing potential.
Nicola Chiucchiurlotto presenting a selection of Madrevite wines at DOPPO Soho restaurant in London
At a recent tasting in London at Tuscan restaurant DOPPO, Nicola presented a selection of his wines with carefully curated dishes. None of these wines are currently available in the UK, but hopefully this will change soon!
Futura is an ancestral method bubbly made from 100% Trebbiano Spoletino. A small amount of frozen must is added to kickstart secondary fermentation in bottle and the wine spends around one year in total on its lees.
🎚️ ABV: 12%.
👃 Nose: Fresh and fruity with notes of citrus, stone fruit and a light bready touch.
😋 Palate: Notes of white peach, golden plum and a hint of tropical fruit with citrus and a softening creamy edge.
🍽️ Food Pairings: Great with oysters, this could also be a good match for light fish or white meat dishes.
A white made from 100% Trebbiano Spoletino with 24-30 hours of skin contact, it spent half a year on its lees in stainless steel tanks before ageing in bottle for a further six months.
🎚️ ABV: 14%.
👃 Nose: Aromatic and floral with white fruit and citrus notes.
😋 Palate: Fruity, full-bodied and structured, this is quite a complex wine with notes of white peach, tropical fruit, citrus, a hint of dried chamomile plus a savoury and flinty character too.
🍽️ Food Pairings: This has great versatility for a variety of fish or white meat dishes and also proved a good match for the pumpkin and sage pasta served at DOPPO.
A white made from 100% Grechetto that spent six months on its fine lees in stainless steel tanks.
🎚️ ABV: 12.5%.
👃 Nose: Delicately floral and fruity with notes of orchard fruit, citrus and a touch of herbaceousness.
😋 Palate: Fresh, vibrant, light and fruity with touches of apple and stone fruit, a hint of hay and spice plus a slight tingle of salinity.
🍽️ Food Pairings: Refreshing and easy to drink on its own, this pairs well with arancini and other light starters or fish dishes.
A rosé made from 100% Gamay del Trasimeno (Grenache) that spends four months in stainless tanks on its fine lees.
🎚️ ABV: 13%.
👃 Nose: Aromatic and floral with red berry and pink grapefruit notes.
😋 Palate: Notes of raspberry, strawberry and red cherry with good acidity, minerality and a tinge of salinity.
🍽️ Food Pairings: A versatile rosé that can pair well with meat or vegetarian-based pasta and turkey dishes.
A red wine made from 100% Gamay del Trasimeno (Grenache) that spends ten months ageing in cement tanks.
🎚️ ABV: 14%.
👃 Nose: Notes of cherry and plum with a hint of cranberry.
😋 Palate: Light and fruity with notes of crunchy berries, plum and cherry, a touch of chalky minerality and a good balance of bracing acidity and fine tannins.
🍽️ Food Pairings: A bright and fresh red wine style, this will cut through buttery or creamy sauces served with pasta, but will also go well with pizza, light meat dishes and cold cuts.
An aged red wine made from 100% Gamay del Trasimeno (Grenache) that spends six months in cement tanks with 20% whole grape clusters and twelve months in large oak barrels, before a further six months in bottle.
🎚️ ABV: 15.5%.
👃 Nose: Aromatic and floral with notes of fresh red berries, raspberry coulis, cherry and gentle wood spice.
😋 Palate: Notes of cherry, strawberry, raspberry and spice with balsamic, graphite and chocolate touches and a fresh mouthfeel despite the wine's age and alcohol level.
🍽️ Food Pairings: A good pairing for meat or mushroom-based risottos and pasta dishes.
DOPPO Soho restaurant where the lunch and tasting took place
These wines have a light touch, reflecting the modern approach inherent to Nicola's winemaking philosophy. They are not heavy, cloying fruit bombs, but have elegance, quality and an engaging, authentic back story that should resonate with a contemporary audience.
It's not an easy time for the wine industry and it takes forward-thinking, adventurous sommeliers and buyers to select lesser known wine styles in the face of increasing commercial pressures and price sensitivities. The sparkling Futura could appeal to natural wine bars, particularly in London, while the more gastronomic Il Reminore and C'Osa are well-suited to good quality Italian restaurants. La Bisbetica Rosato, Opra red and elvé white would be delicious 'by the glass' options, as well as providing creative options for food pairings.
Umbria clearly has much to offer the curious wine lover and Madrevite is well worth discovering.
