While sales of Prosecco have seen huge success for many years now, recent efforts to improve the profile of the Italian sparkler have focussed on more premium expressions. A recent article on these pages illustrates how the steep hillside sites of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG can result in wines with elegance and complexity. Additionally, a report last year on The Write Taste - Prosecco: the world's most misunderstood wine? - analysed why Prosecco's image as simply a cheap, light, sweetish, easy-drinking bubbly for celebrations and after-work chilling out is so misplaced. Comparing premium examples from Conegliano Valdobbiadene and Asolo, it's clear how they express the quality of fruit and the importance of terroir in ways far removed from low-priced mainstream versions and have excellent food compatibility.
Asolo is the fourth biggest Italian sparkling appellation, producing around 24 million bottles per annum now, almost double the amount from five years ago. The Consortium was created in 1985 and Asolo Prosecco was awarded DOCG status in 2009, along with the neighbouring Conegliano Valdobbiadene region, to distinguish both these hilly zones from the flatter Prosecco DOC area. Five years later, the first Extra Brut Prosecco (up to 6g/l residual sugar) was made in Asolo.
The production zone for Asolo Prosecco lies in the province of Treviso, at the foot of Monte Grappa in the high hills west of the River Piave in the shadow of the Dolomites. It's a relatively untouched, pristine and rural area, covering 18 communes around the town of Asolo. There are 2,708 hectares of vineyards here, while in comparison, Conegliano Valdobbiadene has 8,700 hectares under vine.
The Asolo denomination has the largest area of organic vineyards within Prosecco DOC and Prosecco DOCG and all harvesting is carried out by hand. Soils vary from limestone/calcareous marl in the Colli Asolani to iron-rich clay further east in Montello. Steep hillside slopes and the proximity of the Adriatic with resultant cooling breezes create a large diurnal range with warm/hot summers and moderately cold winters, while rainfall is spread fairly evenly throughout the year. As a result, grapes can reach ripeness with full phenolic maturation and importantly retain good levels of acidity. Yields are quite low, compared to the rest of the Prosecco area, with 13½ tonnes per hectare typical.
Characteristics of Asolo Prosecco include white flowers and aromatic herbs (particularly from vineyards in the Colli Asolani), pear, crunchy apple, pink grapefruit and kumquat. Additionally, minerality and salinity (especially from vineyards in Montello) are further defining features.
Glera is the main grape, but 15% of Verdiso, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, Glera Lunga, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio are allowed too. The Extra Dry style (12-17g/l residual sugar) represents 74% of Asolo Prosecco produced and is traditionally regarded by locals as the true expression.
On October 10th, the Consorzio Asolo Prosecco held a lunch and tasting at Michelin 1* St. John restaurant (Smithfield) in London, to celebrate the story of Asolo Prosecco and to show the wines' incredible versatility with food. Alessandro Marchesan, Sommelier and Consultant Wine Buyer, spoke about the region and presented eight different examples of Asolo Prosecco. While the wines chosen were refreshing and delicious for drinking on their own, the tasting and food pairings showed how high quality Prosecco can perfectly accompany the whole meal, from starter to dessert.
The Col Fondo style, with 0g/L of residual sugar, proved a winner for more than one type of dish and Case Paolin Sui Lieviti Brut Natur was a revelation. The subtly rich, fruity and mineral/savoury character of the wine easily coped with creamy fish pie, potatoes with melted cheese and St John's signature dish of roast bone marrow.
Similarly, Asolo Manor Sui Lieviti Figlio della Roccia Brut also had a mineral, savoury lees character, making it a good match for the bone marrow as well.
Vini Costa Ardiva Extra Brut was another particularly successful pairing for the bone marrow and sourdough bread. This became even clearer when adding more salt to the dish, the extra touch of sweetness in the wine (although no more than 6g of residual sugar) proving a perfect counterbalance to the salinity.
Vigneti Mazarolo Millesimato Extra Brut was an excellent match too for both potatoes with melted cheese and spring onions and also the fish pie. The fruit/acid/saline profile of the wine cut through the rich buttery and creamy texture of these dishes.
Tenuta d'Asolo Progress Country and Wine House Col del Sol Brut is a Brut style (maximum 12g of residual sugar). Its delicate fruity and flowery notes with good acidity make this an 'all-rounder' for pairing with many kinds of food, particularly lighter dishes, including appetisers/antipasti, fried white fish and cold cuts of chicken or turkey. The potato, spring onion and melted cheese starter worked well here too.
Bresolin Sior Lino Extra Dry and Montelliana Millesimato Extra Dry were good pairings for the potted pork.
Here, the combination of fruity sweetness and acidity in the wines complemented the understated sweetness of the meat, while cutting through the fat and cleansing the palate. Similarly, the weight and texture of these Proseccos could cope with the roast beef too.
Bedin Dry Millesimato, with 20g/L of residual sugar, ended off the meal, paired successfully with fruit cobbler and date and butterscotch pudding. An elegant and refined expression, this wine could also be served with full-flavoured cheeses, including Parmesan and vintage farmhouse Cheddars.
If you've never considered choosing high quality Proseccos throughout a meal, then think again! As Alessandro Marchesan emphasised, it's time to move away from the idea that Prosecco is just for pizza and pasta, or for drinking on its own. Of course, any of these bubblies can be enjoyed as an aperitif or a chill-down tipple. However, as this tasting showed, Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG shows great versatility for many types of food, whether starter, main course or dessert.
Some of the dishes at St. John restaurant, paired with Asolo Prosecco
Mass-market Proseccos clearly fulfil a market need with their sweetness levels, easy drinkability and large sales volumes. Yet, you don't need to break the bank to find a quality sparkling wine from the steep hills surrounding the ancient town of Asolo. So, next time you choose a wine or wines to accompany your meal, you might want to break out the bubbly and give Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG a try. Buon appetito!
