As we move from one summer heatwave to another, the thought of a refreshing white wine is ever more appealing … but which wine or which grape to go for? In the last few years, I've been enjoying the Verdejo variety more and more.
The signature grape of D.O. Rueda, 🇪🇸 Spain's leading white wine region, it's typically aromatic, crisp and fresh with citrus and stone fruit notes, bracing acidity and hints of fennel, aniseed or wild mountain herbs in both aroma and flavour. A few month's lees ageing often adds a smooth touch to the finish as well.
Verdejo is also fantastically versatile with many different types of food from summer salads and seafood dishes to grilled vegetables, fried fish and soft cheeses, while also being delicious on its own. It's no surprise then that exports to the UK have increased by nearly 7% year-on-year to more than 1.31 million bottles.
DO Rueda is located in Castilla y León in North-West Spain. It's one of the few European vineyard areas specialised in making white wine, with official DO status granted in 1980, but reds and rosés were authorised too in 2008.
Map of DO Rueda: image credit DO Rueda
It is believed that Verdejo has been grown here since the 11th century, brought over from North Africa. Historically, the grape was used to make heavy, oxidised, sherry-like wine called Dorado, but this changed in the 1970s when pioneering Rioja winery, Marqués de Riscal, began to develop a more modern, fresh and zesty style.
While Verdejo is the star grape ahead of Sauvignon Blanc, the other authorised white grape varieties are Viura, Palomino Fino, Viognier and Chardonnay. The proportion of Verdejo depends on the label designation. A minimum of 50% of either Verdejo or Sauvignon Blanc is required for Rueda Blanco and at least 85% for bottles labelled as Rueda Verdejo, although many are 100% Verdejo. For Rueda Espumoso (traditional method sparkling), the rules specify at least 75% Verdejo or Sauvignon Blanc. There are separate rules for red and rosé wines, with Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Garnacha and Syrah the permitted red grape varieties.
Differently coloured back labels on bottles of DO Rueda wine show the official logo and also identify the wine style, along with vintage and other information.
The high-altitude vineyards are planted on rocky, brown soils based on sand, loam, limestone and gravel, rich in calcium and magnesium with good drainage. The climate is continental with Mediterranean influences, benefiting from cold winters and hot summers with sunny days, cool nights and low rainfall of 300 to 500mm per year. Therefore, vine roots are forced to seek out water deep in the nutrient-rich subsoil. These conditions are perfect for growing grapes with a good balance of ripeness and acidity, crucial for producing vibrant, high-quality wines.
Map of DO Rueda: image credit Carlosmartinmm34 via Wikimedia Commons
You can find more information on Rueda Verdejo here and on the official DO Rueda website.
One of the most renowned Spanish producers is Bodegas Protos, based in the world-famous Ribera del Duero region of north-central Spain, about half way between Madrid and Bilbao. Ranked among the top fifty most admired wine brands globally by Drinks International, the winery also has vineyards in Rueda, at 700-800m above sea level, from which they produce 100% Verdejo wines.
Grapes are harvested at night and the wine is aged on fine lees for around three months.
🎚️ ABV: 13%.
🍇 Grapes: 100% Verdejo.
🔍 Colour: Bright straw yellow with a slight tinge of light green.
👃 Nose: Aromatic with notes of grapefruit and lemon, touches of pineapple and apple plus hints of nettle and tarragon.
😋 Palate: Notes of fleshy pomelo and tropical fruit with a refreshing bitter tang of citrus and apple peel, a touch of fennel and a little salinity, while the lees ageing adds structure and a slight creamy edge of brown butter.
🍴 Food Pairings: Great with fried white fish, sushi, hake in a tarragon and garlic butter sauce, grilled chicken with herbs, blue cheese or mushroom risotto, the bracing acidity cutting through richer food.
💳 Stockists: Amazon £14.50, Vinissimus £15.25, Selfridges £15.99.
If you're looking for a fresh alternative to Sauvignon Blanc and other aromatic white wines, then it's time to give Verdejo a try. In fact, National White Wine Day takes place on 4th August. So, if you're going to raise a glass to celebrate or just want some summertime refreshment, then Protos Verdejo 2025 is the perfect choice. ÍChin chin!
