Georgia is known as the cradle of wine with a history of wine production going back 8000 years. The country claims more than 400 indigenous grape varieties, although only around 45 are in commercial production. We are now starting to discover or rediscover some of these, along with traditional Georgian methods of wine production. These ancient ways are being copied by modern winemakers today as they fit perfectly into the desire for more natural wine production with minimal environmental impact.
The country's recent wine history was heavily affected by the demands of the old Soviet Union for cheap bulk wine, but independence in 1991 saw a rebirth, albeit still influenced by the Soviet market. However, in 2006, Russia placed an embargo on importing Georgian wine, so the country looked elsewhere, which is why there's such a growing global market for the 'new ancient trendy' Georgian wines.
View of Tbilisi Old Town
This autumn, Easy Jet and BA announced new direct routes from London to Georgia's capital, Tbilisi. It's a beautiful country with so much to discover, including of course the wines!
Since ancient times, Georgia has been making wine with qvevri. These traditional clay amphora-type vessels are buried in the ground and left there with pips, seeds and grape skins. The egg shape of the clay jar promotes circulation of the fermenting juice, allowing the fruit flavours to develop, adding complexity and tannins. White wine becomes orange or amber in colour, so very different from what you would normally expect from a white wine. However, not all Georgian wines are made in qvevri and many are made in stainless steel with or without oak ageing.
Qvevris at Tbilvino Winery
One of the most famous grape varieties from Georgia is Saperavi, often named the "King of Georgian grapes", compared by some to Malbec.
Appropriately meaning 'dye', it's a teinturier variety (dark skin and pink flesh), high in tannins and acidity. It's also extremely versatile, making both rosé and red wines. While most expressions we see, certainly in the UK, are dry reds, Saperavi can be used for off-dry, sweet and fortified wines too.
Tbilvino, established nearly 60 years ago, has become one of Georgia's leading wine producers. Owned by the Margvelashvili brothers and with 226 hectares of vineyards in three different subzones of Kakheti, the winery has seen much investment. They have two wineries, the original in Tbilisi which was refurbished in 2008, and a second, built in 2012 in Kvareli, close to Russia's southern border, where they produce their qvevri wines. In addition to their own vineyards, they also work with 500 partner growers in other regions of Georgia.
Kvareli is located halfway along the northernmost border of Kakheti, regarded as Georgia's premier wine producing region. Tbilvino's vineyards here are planted on alluvial, stony soils, some with a high proportion of sand from the Duruji river bed. Saperavi is king and provides the latest recommendation on The Write Taste, Tbilvino Qvevris Saperavi 2021.
🍇 Grapes: Saperavi 100%.
🎚️ ABV: 13.5%.
🔍 Colour: Dark red with a purple glint.
👃 Nose: Aromatic with notes of violets, loganberry, cherry, liquorice and thyme as the wine opens up.
😋 Palate: Earthy and graphite notes initially with firm tannins that mellow with time in the glass. As the wine is exposed to air, fruity tones of dark berries and cherries develop with hints of salty liquorice, cocoa powder, dried Mediterranean herbs and a touch of nutmeg and cloves on the finish.
🍽️ Food Pairings: Roast lamb, bean stew, lamb or ox liver.
💡 This is a wine that needs to breathe for a couple of hours before drinking to allow the fruit and other flavours to develop and show some complexity. Decanting is recommended too.
💳 RRP is around £20 per bottle from various online retailers, including Strictly Wine, All About Wine and the Artisan Food Company.
For more information on Georgian wine and culture, see Georgian Wine UK.
