There's never been a better time to buy sparkling wine, as the choice is endless. Whether traditional method, 'Pet Nat', Charmat method etc., supermarket and indie shelves stock examples from all over the world.
The different Crémant styles remain among the best value méthode traditionelle sparklers. Yet there are other similar treats just waiting to be discovered by a bigger audience. One of these is Saumur Brut from the Loire Valley.
Vineyards dedicated to the production of Saumur Brut extend to around 1500 hectares in the heart of the Anjou region in western France, near the centre of the Loire Valley. There are variations in both soil and sun exposure with microclimates influenced by the river and its tributaries. These provide excellent conditions for making sparkling wine.
While there is some Anjou Noir schist to the west of the region, vineyards are largely planted on tuffeau limestone. This yellow-white sandy/chalky soil absorbs the daytime heat of the sun, releasing it at night. Another advantage is that it stores moisture, particularly during winter rainfall, allowing for good hydration and maturation of the grapes in drier periods.
Although several varieties are planted in the region, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc are the key white and red grapes in the production of Saumur sparkling wine. Like Crémant de Loire, Saumur Brut is made by the traditional method with a minimum of nine months' ageing on lees sur latte (bottles stacked horizontally on slats). However, Crémant de Loire undergoes at least one year's ageing and, because a higher percentage of Chardonnay and red grapes is allowed, tends to be softer, creamier and richer in style.
One producer from the region, whose wines I've admired for several years now, is Louis de Grenelle. An award-winning family business, they have been family-owned sine 1859 and now produce 1.4 million bottles of still and sparkling wine, including 42% AOC Saumur and 23% Méthode Traditionnelle. Forming a cooperative with partner winegrowers in 2006, they now have close working relationships with 24 partner producers. With a focus on sustainability and biodiversity, they are all committed to the HVE-3 approach of agriculture.
Louis de Grenelle's cellars, built out of the tufa limestone 12 metres beneath the cobbled streets of Saumur, stretch for around 2km. These caverns were originally dug many years ago by prisoners and were later used during World War II by La Résistance. As you can imagine, it's an ideal place to store wine!
The grapes used to produce their sparkling Saumur and Crémant are grown on the hillsides surrounding the town of Saumur and in the small hamlets nearby. Their wide range of sparkling wines is based on three grape varieties - Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc.
They have four sparkling wine 'Collections' (Élégance, Raffinement, Intemporels, Bio) and one still (Château De La Durandière) produced from a 40-hectare vineyard certified sustainable in 2007.
Two of the Saumur sparklers are described below:-
Grande Cuvée is a Saumur Brut, made from 90% Chenin Blanc and 10% Chardonnay, aged on its lees for 18-24 months, with a dosage of 2g/L.
Appearance: clear, pale gold with fine bubbles.
Nose: aromas of lemon curd, brioche and white peach with hints of honey and tropical fruit.
Palate: notes of honeydew melon, toasted brown bread, custard apple, bittersweet lemon and grapefruit pith with fresh acidity and a long finish.
Food Pairings: roast chicken, chick pea dishes, crab salad, monkfish, calamari and almond pastries.
Where to buy Louis de Grenelle Saumur Brut Rosé Grande Cuvée: The General Wine Company at £16.99 per bottle.
Corail is a Saumur Brut Rosé, made from 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Grolleau, aged on its lees for a minimum of 9 months, with a dosage of 9-10g/L. In April 2022, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave it 90 points.
Appearance: clear, light pink with fine bubbles.
Nose: aromas of red berries, tulips and raspberry sherbet plus a hint of brioche and vanilla custard.
Palate: notes of raspberry sorbet, croissant and bread crust, with a crisp yet rounded mouthfeel, good acidity and a lingering finish.
Food Pairings: cold cuts of roast beef, goats cheese salads and desserts like summer pudding or Eton mess.
Where to buy Louis de Grenelle Saumur Brut Rosé Corail: Le Bon Vin at £13.95 per bottle, or £13.50 each for two.
